Bundi - A Teardrop of Joy held in the palms of the Mountains
Route: Gurgaon - Jaipur - Tonk - Devali - Hindoli - Bundi - Back
Now this is what you should do: find yourself an extended weekend, where the skies are cloudy and north wind blowing across the plains. Then get your vehicle out on the Gurgaon - Jaipur highway and head towards Bundi - that tiny exotic teardrop (lit; Bundi means drop) of Joy, held in the palms of the mountains. Not camels, not folk songs, not the traditional and oh-so-boring Rajasthan; but a completely new and fresh look at the magnificent state of India - the Hadoti region that is Bundi - and a haven for the bag-packing and adventurous tourist.
DAY 1:
You will go through the usual Jaipur highway, crossing Behror and Kotputli, straight towards Jaipur. Some 20km before Jaipur, you will see the bypass that leads to Ajmer. Do not take it. Just keep going towards the city of palaces. You will reach a junction (about 3 hours from your starting point in Gurgaon), where to your right is the old road to Ajmer, and to your left is the road leading to Agra. Take neither. There is a tiny road going straight. Take that. It is a rather superfluous ride through the backyards of the city, but the road leads you to Tonk road, which is what you should be taking.
Now once you are on the Tonk road, things are pretty straightforward. You will pass the new suburbs of Jaipur - like Pratap Nagar, Haldi Ghati etc. and will move forward towards Tonk. You will pass Choki Dhani on your right, about 20km - near Sanganer. Spare it, if it is lunch time. You do not want ordinary food at extraordinary prices, do you? Pick up something at the mall at Pratap Nagar instead.
Sanganer is famous for fabric prints, and also for traffic. Cross and go towards Tonk, which is around 100km from here. The road is quite good, like all roads in Rajasthan - that is one hell of an advantage in driving through this state; although it is mostly two-lane and you have to zigzag through the battery of trucks and buses. There are two railway crossings on the way. But if you are lucky, you will get past without stoppage. The second crossing, near Niwai, offers a choice of soothing and hydrating kheeras (cucumber) sold by local roadside vendors.
The best part of the road is that you do not have to go through any cities / towns. All bypass roads are well maintained. You will take about 3 hours for Jaipur to Bundi, through Deoli, and Hindoli ... and it will be a piece of cake. The patch around Hindoli is very dry though.
As you near Bundi, the landscape starts changing. You see green fields on both sides, and the road becomes mountainous. The landscape starts filling with some character, with a couple of old temples and ruins of havelis. Now you can expect magic for sure.
You will see one road going to the left and pointing to Garh Palace. Miss that, and continue on the Kota road, and you will suddenly see the entire city of Bundi - with its blue houses - as literally a timeless droplet of mountain dew held on the leaves early morning.
Bundi is surrounded by the Aravalli hills on the three sides and is circumscribed by a massive wall with four gateways. You can take the road to the left and go straight to the Garh Palace. The road leads to narrow lanes, and further to narrower lanes, until you wonder whether you have taken the correct route. Do not worry ... it is - and it will see you through. You will see Braj Bhushan Ji's haveli and then the road will turn left, go steep up and land in an open space for parking right in front of the main door of the great palace. The local parking attendant is very nice and chatty, and known a lot about the area.
This is the entrance to both the Bundi Palace and the Taragarh Fort. You can buy a ticket if you want to go to the Bundi Palace, but the fort is for free. You should take the route to the fort first, and then climb back down to the palace, which is located on the left shoulder of the same mountain.
As you climb up the star-shaped fort - hence the name 'Tara garh' - built about 600 years ago (in 1354 A.D. as the plaque in front of the gate proclaims) by Rao Bar Singh, one of the early rulers of Bundi, you will see the quaint little town of Bundi with its blue houses nestled among the Aravalis. It is a sight that cannot be explained with words, nor captured in camera. Soak in the wonders of the world, and climb slowly towards the pinnacle. Be careful of the langurs (red-faced monkeys) though.
It is said that in 1193 A.D. when Prithviraj Chauhan was defeated by Sultan Mohammed Ghauri, some Chauhan nobles seeked shelter in Mewar and became allies to the Rana while other young warriors move towards the Chambal valley and overpowered the Meena and Bhil tribals-thus establishing their own kingdom of Hadoti. Later, two branches of Hadas formed two separates states of Kota and Bundi, on either side of the river Chambal.
There is a steep climb which takes you to a structure to the right - which is now famous as the sunset point. To the left, further climb and you go towards the fort. You will cross two large doors to enter the fort. The fort provides some of the finest views you will ever see from the top. You will see the town of Bundi to your left, the Bundi Palace (Rajmahal) to the right, the square Nawal Sagar lake in front of the Palace, and the Aravali mountain range ahead - with the Kota road winding past.
Climb down after you have soaked in the last rays of the sun, and head towards the city. There are two options for stay - the Braj Bhushan Ji's haveli which is rather expensive because of its proximity to the Palace (Rs. 2,500/- starting), or Ishwari Niwas near the circuit house - which will give you an A/C double room for Rs. 1,200/- in off season.
The road from the Palace to Ishwari Niwas is very narrow, but you can take your car through. The lane goes through what they call Bartan Bazaar - market of the utensils. It is quite a sight, more so if you fail to miss some of the bartans kept for display alongside the lane.
The Ishwari Niwas haveli is well maintained, and the service is satisfactory. Only the food needs a lot of improvement. Unwind in the courtyard and retire early, 'cause you will sleep like a baby.
DAY 2:
The morning will come swiftly. You can have a leisurely breakfast at the haveli, and set out for what the town offers. The road that brought you to the haveli, will take you further 5 minutes drive to the most famous cenotaphs called the "Chaurasi Khambon ki Chhatri" - lit: Eighty four pillared cenotaph.
It is in the middle of a large ground, and although a sight worth seeing, is hardly maintained and visited. It is said in the books that there is a quirky story around these 84 pillars - that you cannot count them correctly ever. You will count 83 or 85, but never 84. There will be a few locals around, some children playing on the ground, and some men resting in the shade of the cenotaph, who will guide you to the entrance. The cenotaph is built around a square platform of shivalingam made of white marble. There are a few carvings on the stairs, which might interest you.
Climb on the top of the cenotaph, which offers a nice view of the surroundings. You can then return to the car and head back towards the city center. You will cross Ishwari Niwas. The next left will take you to a crowded part of the town - where you will see the famous doodhwalas (milkmen) of Bundi with their yellow brass drums hanging on the two sides of their motorbikes - and also to the Rani Ji ki Baori (Queen's stepwell) - the most beautiful stepwell among the 30-odd stepwells dotting the city and also one of the largest in Rajasthan. This was built, it is said, in 1699 A.D. by Rani Nathawat Ji, the Queen of Rao Anirudh Singh, the 15th ruler of Bundi. This Queen is reputed to have built 21 such wells, of which this particular Baori is known for its architectural beauty.
You are now ready to head back to the Rajmahal near the fort. Go through the bartan bazaar again and park in front of the palace gates. It is this palace that made Rudyard Kipling stay back and write his famous book 'Kim' in Bundi, and also to say in his Letters of Marque - " ... the Palace of Bundi, even in broad daylight, is such a palace as men build for themselves in uneasy dreams-- the work of goblins rather than of men." The quote has its place on the main entrance of the palace - only for some strange reasons the word "goblins" are replaced with "cobbling"!
The palace is truly magnificant, and still a private property of Maharaj Kumar Ranjeet Singh Ji, the 25th Maharaja of Bundi and the current ruler. You will enter the palace through Hathi Pole or the Elephant Gate, which has two huge elephants carved atop. Inside, there is a courtyard and then the Diwan-e-Aam. Cross this, and you go to Chhatra Mahal, which has a few exotic paintings of the famous Bundi style - with the turquoise blue background and white humans. The main topic seems to be Radha Krishna, although you will spot some with other topics too - like a boat race, musical programs, or the court scenes. The ceilings usually have panoramic battle scenes.
These are some of the finest specimens that have stood the test of time. The windows and zharokas in Chhatra Mahal offer great views of Bundi and Nawal Sagar, and the temple of Varuna on the Nawal Sagar too. Just after Hathi Pole, to your left, you will see an old office of district land registry. This office, though infested with rats, is worth a peep. They have land records as old as 500 years - maintained in cloth covers!
The final destination is Chitrashala - also called Ummed Mahal - just ahead of the palace on the way to the fort. The courtyard here, with its solitary patch of green marked with a single black tree, will remind you of Minas Tirith of LOTR. There is a dried swimming pool in the center of the courtyard. A quick flight of stairs, and you will enter the Chitrashala. The walls are filled with Bundi paintings - traditional murals and frescos, and you can have your hearts fill oogling at them - scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Bhagwatam, along with Dhola-maru - the region's own Romeo and Juliet.
You can return the same day. You can take a small detour to see the location of Phool Sagar palace, but it is a private property of the king and you need a special approval of DM to get in. You will cross the same towns and reach Jaipur. Do not forget to stop by at Jaipur for an excellent lunch at Spice Court or Copper Chimney, and it will a weekend well spent.
Best
- Shreekant
14 April 2009
Now this is what you should do: find yourself an extended weekend, where the skies are cloudy and north wind blowing across the plains. Then get your vehicle out on the Gurgaon - Jaipur highway and head towards Bundi - that tiny exotic teardrop (lit; Bundi means drop) of Joy, held in the palms of the mountains. Not camels, not folk songs, not the traditional and oh-so-boring Rajasthan; but a completely new and fresh look at the magnificent state of India - the Hadoti region that is Bundi - and a haven for the bag-packing and adventurous tourist.DAY 1:
You will go through the usual Jaipur highway, crossing Behror and Kotputli, straight towards Jaipur. Some 20km before Jaipur, you will see the bypass that leads to Ajmer. Do not take it. Just keep going towards the city of palaces. You will reach a junction (about 3 hours from your starting point in Gurgaon), where to your right is the old road to Ajmer, and to your left is the road leading to Agra. Take neither. There is a tiny road going straight. Take that. It is a rather superfluous ride through the backyards of the city, but the road leads you to Tonk road, which is what you should be taking.
Now once you are on the Tonk road, things are pretty straightforward. You will pass the new suburbs of Jaipur - like Pratap Nagar, Haldi Ghati etc. and will move forward towards Tonk. You will pass Choki Dhani on your right, about 20km - near Sanganer. Spare it, if it is lunch time. You do not want ordinary food at extraordinary prices, do you? Pick up something at the mall at Pratap Nagar instead.
Sanganer is famous for fabric prints, and also for traffic. Cross and go towards Tonk, which is around 100km from here. The road is quite good, like all roads in Rajasthan - that is one hell of an advantage in driving through this state; although it is mostly two-lane and you have to zigzag through the battery of trucks and buses. There are two railway crossings on the way. But if you are lucky, you will get past without stoppage. The second crossing, near Niwai, offers a choice of soothing and hydrating kheeras (cucumber) sold by local roadside vendors.
The best part of the road is that you do not have to go through any cities / towns. All bypass roads are well maintained. You will take about 3 hours for Jaipur to Bundi, through Deoli, and Hindoli ... and it will be a piece of cake. The patch around Hindoli is very dry though.
As you near Bundi, the landscape starts changing. You see green fields on both sides, and the road becomes mountainous. The landscape starts filling with some character, with a couple of old temples and ruins of havelis. Now you can expect magic for sure.
You will see one road going to the left and pointing to Garh Palace. Miss that, and continue on the Kota road, and you will suddenly see the entire city of Bundi - with its blue houses - as literally a timeless droplet of mountain dew held on the leaves early morning.
Bundi is surrounded by the Aravalli hills on the three sides and is circumscribed by a massive wall with four gateways. You can take the road to the left and go straight to the Garh Palace. The road leads to narrow lanes, and further to narrower lanes, until you wonder whether you have taken the correct route. Do not worry ... it is - and it will see you through. You will see Braj Bhushan Ji's haveli and then the road will turn left, go steep up and land in an open space for parking right in front of the main door of the great palace. The local parking attendant is very nice and chatty, and known a lot about the area.
This is the entrance to both the Bundi Palace and the Taragarh Fort. You can buy a ticket if you want to go to the Bundi Palace, but the fort is for free. You should take the route to the fort first, and then climb back down to the palace, which is located on the left shoulder of the same mountain.
As you climb up the star-shaped fort - hence the name 'Tara garh' - built about 600 years ago (in 1354 A.D. as the plaque in front of the gate proclaims) by Rao Bar Singh, one of the early rulers of Bundi, you will see the quaint little town of Bundi with its blue houses nestled among the Aravalis. It is a sight that cannot be explained with words, nor captured in camera. Soak in the wonders of the world, and climb slowly towards the pinnacle. Be careful of the langurs (red-faced monkeys) though.
It is said that in 1193 A.D. when Prithviraj Chauhan was defeated by Sultan Mohammed Ghauri, some Chauhan nobles seeked shelter in Mewar and became allies to the Rana while other young warriors move towards the Chambal valley and overpowered the Meena and Bhil tribals-thus establishing their own kingdom of Hadoti. Later, two branches of Hadas formed two separates states of Kota and Bundi, on either side of the river Chambal.
There is a steep climb which takes you to a structure to the right - which is now famous as the sunset point. To the left, further climb and you go towards the fort. You will cross two large doors to enter the fort. The fort provides some of the finest views you will ever see from the top. You will see the town of Bundi to your left, the Bundi Palace (Rajmahal) to the right, the square Nawal Sagar lake in front of the Palace, and the Aravali mountain range ahead - with the Kota road winding past.
Climb down after you have soaked in the last rays of the sun, and head towards the city. There are two options for stay - the Braj Bhushan Ji's haveli which is rather expensive because of its proximity to the Palace (Rs. 2,500/- starting), or Ishwari Niwas near the circuit house - which will give you an A/C double room for Rs. 1,200/- in off season.
The road from the Palace to Ishwari Niwas is very narrow, but you can take your car through. The lane goes through what they call Bartan Bazaar - market of the utensils. It is quite a sight, more so if you fail to miss some of the bartans kept for display alongside the lane.
The Ishwari Niwas haveli is well maintained, and the service is satisfactory. Only the food needs a lot of improvement. Unwind in the courtyard and retire early, 'cause you will sleep like a baby.
DAY 2:
The morning will come swiftly. You can have a leisurely breakfast at the haveli, and set out for what the town offers. The road that brought you to the haveli, will take you further 5 minutes drive to the most famous cenotaphs called the "Chaurasi Khambon ki Chhatri" - lit: Eighty four pillared cenotaph.
It is in the middle of a large ground, and although a sight worth seeing, is hardly maintained and visited. It is said in the books that there is a quirky story around these 84 pillars - that you cannot count them correctly ever. You will count 83 or 85, but never 84. There will be a few locals around, some children playing on the ground, and some men resting in the shade of the cenotaph, who will guide you to the entrance. The cenotaph is built around a square platform of shivalingam made of white marble. There are a few carvings on the stairs, which might interest you. Climb on the top of the cenotaph, which offers a nice view of the surroundings. You can then return to the car and head back towards the city center. You will cross Ishwari Niwas. The next left will take you to a crowded part of the town - where you will see the famous doodhwalas (milkmen) of Bundi with their yellow brass drums hanging on the two sides of their motorbikes - and also to the Rani Ji ki Baori (Queen's stepwell) - the most beautiful stepwell among the 30-odd stepwells dotting the city and also one of the largest in Rajasthan. This was built, it is said, in 1699 A.D. by Rani Nathawat Ji, the Queen of Rao Anirudh Singh, the 15th ruler of Bundi. This Queen is reputed to have built 21 such wells, of which this particular Baori is known for its architectural beauty.
You are now ready to head back to the Rajmahal near the fort. Go through the bartan bazaar again and park in front of the palace gates. It is this palace that made Rudyard Kipling stay back and write his famous book 'Kim' in Bundi, and also to say in his Letters of Marque - " ... the Palace of Bundi, even in broad daylight, is such a palace as men build for themselves in uneasy dreams-- the work of goblins rather than of men." The quote has its place on the main entrance of the palace - only for some strange reasons the word "goblins" are replaced with "cobbling"!
The palace is truly magnificant, and still a private property of Maharaj Kumar Ranjeet Singh Ji, the 25th Maharaja of Bundi and the current ruler. You will enter the palace through Hathi Pole or the Elephant Gate, which has two huge elephants carved atop. Inside, there is a courtyard and then the Diwan-e-Aam. Cross this, and you go to Chhatra Mahal, which has a few exotic paintings of the famous Bundi style - with the turquoise blue background and white humans. The main topic seems to be Radha Krishna, although you will spot some with other topics too - like a boat race, musical programs, or the court scenes. The ceilings usually have panoramic battle scenes.
These are some of the finest specimens that have stood the test of time. The windows and zharokas in Chhatra Mahal offer great views of Bundi and Nawal Sagar, and the temple of Varuna on the Nawal Sagar too. Just after Hathi Pole, to your left, you will see an old office of district land registry. This office, though infested with rats, is worth a peep. They have land records as old as 500 years - maintained in cloth covers!
The final destination is Chitrashala - also called Ummed Mahal - just ahead of the palace on the way to the fort. The courtyard here, with its solitary patch of green marked with a single black tree, will remind you of Minas Tirith of LOTR. There is a dried swimming pool in the center of the courtyard. A quick flight of stairs, and you will enter the Chitrashala. The walls are filled with Bundi paintings - traditional murals and frescos, and you can have your hearts fill oogling at them - scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Bhagwatam, along with Dhola-maru - the region's own Romeo and Juliet.
You can return the same day. You can take a small detour to see the location of Phool Sagar palace, but it is a private property of the king and you need a special approval of DM to get in. You will cross the same towns and reach Jaipur. Do not forget to stop by at Jaipur for an excellent lunch at Spice Court or Copper Chimney, and it will a weekend well spent.
Best
- Shreekant
14 April 2009
Comments