Colombo Reloaded
The curse (or boon) of the White Rider that sits on my shoulder requires me to not only visit new places, but also revisit many. The one place that I have been visiting almost once each year for the last decade, and I do not mind doing so, is Sri Lanka, specifically Colombo.
I have seen it during the time of war, and now I am seeing it during the time of (relative) peace. I was in Colombo during the famous incident of an army aircraft hitting a civilian building in Colombo. I am there, today, when Modi is addressing the Sri Lankan parliament as if it is an extension of his political influence.
It seems like a jolly good idea, therefore, to at least list down some of the changes in the perception I have had over the years about this wonderful neighbor of India, while the new Government faces its first acid test of a 'post 100-day' general election:
People:
* People are almost uniformly warm and hospitable, not only those in tourism but also general public. Of course, auto rickshaw drivers are an exception - but that one is true of all places. The city does have an undertone of the island culture - relaxed, comfortable and less stressed. However, with more and more Indians visiting this place, I am not sure how long this will remain - as our bad habits are rather easy to pick up.
* They are, however, a different people - although they look like Indians. An average Sri Lankan is usually relaxed, humble, friendly and yet incredibly proud of his country. Some carry the vestiges of the colonial era with them, and are also unusually keen on arts and literature. Many Sri Lankan authors have made a name for themselves in UK, Canada and other English speaking countries. The Lit fest in Colombo is quite a treat.
* Sri Lankan demographics are famous for three (supposedly true) heuristics. They have one of the highest rate of literacy and numeracy in the world. Incidentally, they also have the highest per capita consumption of alcohol, what with their VSOP Arrack and their Lion lager beer. And then there is also that they have one of the highest mortality by suicide rates in the world. Statisticians and social scientists ... Go figure out the causality - what a superb case of a structural equation!
Stay:
* The whole world is in a flux, and Sri Lanka is no exception. New buildings are coming up, new hotels and shopping malls. Big brands in hospitality like Shangri-La and ITC are building monstrous places at a rapid pace. Most of the older hotels have undergone a face-lift (like Intercontinental which is now called Kingsbury), or are in the process of (like the Galle Face hotel, the Hilton etc.). The port city is getting built, new high rises are coming up, prices are rising, new taxes are getting levied and politicians are trying to prove that all this for the betterment of the hoi polloi.
* But the common man is getting poorer, and all this development is not touching him. This is in fact creating resentment rather than confidence, and the typical care-free Sri Lankan has started to get wrinkled brows. Till the time he does not know where all this is leading to, he continues to send his son and daughter for further studies and work to Australia or New Zealand.
* There are several service apartments mushrooming across the city now, which offer good value for money. Cinnamon Heights is expensive, but good location. There are colonial houses redone as service apartments, which offer good deals and meals too.
Eats:
* A whole range of new eating options is now available in Colombo, including some non Sri Lankan cuisine. There is a string of Chinese joints that you will find on the stretch towards Mount Lavania. There are several cafes, tea shops, bakeries, and upmarket joints that have sprung out of nowhere. The places near Paradise road, Dutch hospital, Independence Day arcade are rather nice. I will just list a few from memory:
- Paradise Cafe - for good Italian, but in tiny portions
- Light House Galley - managed by the Navy, good food and ambiance
- R&R at the Race Course - good music and setting, food is rather ordinary
- Cricket Club - for good burgers and fries named after cricketers and other paraphernalia
- Manhattan Fish Market - part of the chain, but some special seafood dishes in Colombo
- Ministry of Crab - for the largest Singapore crab ever
* Here's a little fun fact - in Sri Lanka they sell crabs saying these are exported from Singapore, and in Singapore they sell crabs saying those are exported from Sri Lanka !! Adam Smith fans, kindly be doing the explaining of this import-export arrangement here.
* The earlier restaurants have got revamped in some cases and people have started to flock to them more often, so the business is brisk. Here's a list of the have-beens and maybe must-visits:
- Beach Wadiya - for excellent devilled crab, prawn curry and garlic bread
- Bavarian Cafe near Galle Face - for German sausages and steak
- Commons - for baked crab and specialty coffee
- A Floor Above - setting is next to a functional swimming pool on first floor, food is so-so
- Bay leaf - for Thai food as authentic as it can get in Colombo
- Hilton has a good traditional Sri Lankan restaurant with great spread
- Lagoon in Cinnamon Grand for seafood, however one at Mount Lavania is probably better
* The mid range and lower food scene is dominated by Pilawoos - a local chain of simple food joints that serves good kottu - arguably Sri Lanka's national fast food - parathas / rotis cut rapidly into tiny morsels and mixed with chicken etc. Try the spring hopper biriyani (no, it's not biryani you guys, it's a meal in itself and is made of vermicelli - thin rice noodles) and also the cheese kottu as the plain one is rather dry. You have a choice of Ice Milo (milk shake) or lime and Coke, if dryness is still a concern. Here's a list of pocket friendly joints:
- Pilawoos - the one on Galle Road is probably the original one. But not a lot of sitting space
- Palmyra in Renuka hotel - for great Jaffna cuisine; their milk hoppers and crab roast are great
- Summer Garden - near the ID square. For hoppers and a really large-size seafood sizzler
- Dine-more - a chain of local joints serving subs and sandwiches
- Queens - same as above, only less frequently visible
* Most of these places may not have good ambiance, but the food is decent and plentiful, and yet - within budget. Like in Summer Garden, the lighting is so dim that you feel like you are sitting in a dull bar in Mumbai surrounded by drunkards (this later part of the sentence may be actually true!) - even though it has an open air sitting. Pilawoos is usually best for parking outside and getting the food and drink in the car.
Getting around:
* Roads were always clean and evenly laid out in Colombo, barring the very old parts of the city. But now some of the new roads that have come up - like the 20-km Expressway from the airport (Negombo) to the city is simply superb. There is a general opinion, though, that it is perhaps the most expensive Express way in this part of the world - a one way toll costs LKR 300 (US$ 25).
* The Chinese have gotten really busy in Colombo, thanks to the earlier regime. It does seem, interestingly, that all their activity is just that - busy work. They have built most roads that lead from nowhere to nowhere (it takes half an hour just to reach the start of the Express way from the city). They have built a new airport in Hambantota which cannot be operated fully due to the bird problem (peacocks running wild on the air strip). And they have built a new harbor port which cannot be functioned fully (as the cranes tend to swing wildly due to cross wind).
* Most of the construction in Colombo was and is done by the army that got free from their duty as the war with Tigers ended. A lot of it is quite good to look at, similar to what one seems in parts of Singapore - ike the area developed near the earlier Dutch Hospital, the 3D murals on the tarmac, the re-developed race course and the Independence Day square memorial. It is a combination of colonial architecture with modern building techniques, and some of it is quite an eye candy.
* Commute is a challenge still. There are some radio cabs like Kangaroo, but they are pricey. The tuk-tuks or auto rickshaws are cheaper, but one needs to haggle for petty distances. The train is better to getting out of the Colombo city - like an overnight journey to Trincomalee, not for within.
* The best is to walk around, especially around the Old Parliament, Galle Face and fort area. Here are some of the things that can be seen as a tourist:
- Independence Day square - for a modern building with ancient looking architecture
- ID square arcade - with stone lions and a huge fish tank right under your feet
- Galle Face - water front and new port, where you can spend hours seeing the sea waves
- 3D art on tarmac Bataramulla - complete with eateries nearby and a band playing at evenings
- Older places like Gangaramaya temple and the Museum - some are revamped now
That is pretty much what it is for now, and what I recollect after a hectic and rushed visit recently. Like the city which is getting built and rebuilt piece by piece, this post will get updated as my visits continue and more and more things start opening up.
One thing is for sure, though - I am most eagerly waiting for Galle Face hotel to open their restaurant Verandah once again for breakfast. The place is next to a large lawn, overlooking the sea and you can practically drink the morning sea mist in the air while at breakfast. This is (or was) probably the only actual beach front any hotel has in Colombo (except Mount Lavania hotel, which is far) - and will remain so for quite some time, even with all the new hotels coming up! ... Usually one of my finest breakfast experiences ever!
Best
- S
19 March 2015
I have seen it during the time of war, and now I am seeing it during the time of (relative) peace. I was in Colombo during the famous incident of an army aircraft hitting a civilian building in Colombo. I am there, today, when Modi is addressing the Sri Lankan parliament as if it is an extension of his political influence.
It seems like a jolly good idea, therefore, to at least list down some of the changes in the perception I have had over the years about this wonderful neighbor of India, while the new Government faces its first acid test of a 'post 100-day' general election:
.jpeg) |
| The Earlier Sri Lankan Parliament and Galle Face Seafront |
People:
* People are almost uniformly warm and hospitable, not only those in tourism but also general public. Of course, auto rickshaw drivers are an exception - but that one is true of all places. The city does have an undertone of the island culture - relaxed, comfortable and less stressed. However, with more and more Indians visiting this place, I am not sure how long this will remain - as our bad habits are rather easy to pick up.
* They are, however, a different people - although they look like Indians. An average Sri Lankan is usually relaxed, humble, friendly and yet incredibly proud of his country. Some carry the vestiges of the colonial era with them, and are also unusually keen on arts and literature. Many Sri Lankan authors have made a name for themselves in UK, Canada and other English speaking countries. The Lit fest in Colombo is quite a treat.
* Sri Lankan demographics are famous for three (supposedly true) heuristics. They have one of the highest rate of literacy and numeracy in the world. Incidentally, they also have the highest per capita consumption of alcohol, what with their VSOP Arrack and their Lion lager beer. And then there is also that they have one of the highest mortality by suicide rates in the world. Statisticians and social scientists ... Go figure out the causality - what a superb case of a structural equation!
Stay:
* The whole world is in a flux, and Sri Lanka is no exception. New buildings are coming up, new hotels and shopping malls. Big brands in hospitality like Shangri-La and ITC are building monstrous places at a rapid pace. Most of the older hotels have undergone a face-lift (like Intercontinental which is now called Kingsbury), or are in the process of (like the Galle Face hotel, the Hilton etc.). The port city is getting built, new high rises are coming up, prices are rising, new taxes are getting levied and politicians are trying to prove that all this for the betterment of the hoi polloi.
* But the common man is getting poorer, and all this development is not touching him. This is in fact creating resentment rather than confidence, and the typical care-free Sri Lankan has started to get wrinkled brows. Till the time he does not know where all this is leading to, he continues to send his son and daughter for further studies and work to Australia or New Zealand.
* There are several service apartments mushrooming across the city now, which offer good value for money. Cinnamon Heights is expensive, but good location. There are colonial houses redone as service apartments, which offer good deals and meals too.
Eats:
* A whole range of new eating options is now available in Colombo, including some non Sri Lankan cuisine. There is a string of Chinese joints that you will find on the stretch towards Mount Lavania. There are several cafes, tea shops, bakeries, and upmarket joints that have sprung out of nowhere. The places near Paradise road, Dutch hospital, Independence Day arcade are rather nice. I will just list a few from memory:
- Paradise Cafe - for good Italian, but in tiny portions
- Light House Galley - managed by the Navy, good food and ambiance
- R&R at the Race Course - good music and setting, food is rather ordinary
- Cricket Club - for good burgers and fries named after cricketers and other paraphernalia
- Manhattan Fish Market - part of the chain, but some special seafood dishes in Colombo
- Ministry of Crab - for the largest Singapore crab ever
* Here's a little fun fact - in Sri Lanka they sell crabs saying these are exported from Singapore, and in Singapore they sell crabs saying those are exported from Sri Lanka !! Adam Smith fans, kindly be doing the explaining of this import-export arrangement here.
* The earlier restaurants have got revamped in some cases and people have started to flock to them more often, so the business is brisk. Here's a list of the have-beens and maybe must-visits:
- Beach Wadiya - for excellent devilled crab, prawn curry and garlic bread
- Bavarian Cafe near Galle Face - for German sausages and steak
- Commons - for baked crab and specialty coffee
- A Floor Above - setting is next to a functional swimming pool on first floor, food is so-so
- Bay leaf - for Thai food as authentic as it can get in Colombo
- Hilton has a good traditional Sri Lankan restaurant with great spread
- Lagoon in Cinnamon Grand for seafood, however one at Mount Lavania is probably better
* The mid range and lower food scene is dominated by Pilawoos - a local chain of simple food joints that serves good kottu - arguably Sri Lanka's national fast food - parathas / rotis cut rapidly into tiny morsels and mixed with chicken etc. Try the spring hopper biriyani (no, it's not biryani you guys, it's a meal in itself and is made of vermicelli - thin rice noodles) and also the cheese kottu as the plain one is rather dry. You have a choice of Ice Milo (milk shake) or lime and Coke, if dryness is still a concern. Here's a list of pocket friendly joints:
- Pilawoos - the one on Galle Road is probably the original one. But not a lot of sitting space
- Palmyra in Renuka hotel - for great Jaffna cuisine; their milk hoppers and crab roast are great
- Summer Garden - near the ID square. For hoppers and a really large-size seafood sizzler
- Dine-more - a chain of local joints serving subs and sandwiches
- Queens - same as above, only less frequently visible
* Most of these places may not have good ambiance, but the food is decent and plentiful, and yet - within budget. Like in Summer Garden, the lighting is so dim that you feel like you are sitting in a dull bar in Mumbai surrounded by drunkards (this later part of the sentence may be actually true!) - even though it has an open air sitting. Pilawoos is usually best for parking outside and getting the food and drink in the car.
Getting around:
* Roads were always clean and evenly laid out in Colombo, barring the very old parts of the city. But now some of the new roads that have come up - like the 20-km Expressway from the airport (Negombo) to the city is simply superb. There is a general opinion, though, that it is perhaps the most expensive Express way in this part of the world - a one way toll costs LKR 300 (US$ 25).
* The Chinese have gotten really busy in Colombo, thanks to the earlier regime. It does seem, interestingly, that all their activity is just that - busy work. They have built most roads that lead from nowhere to nowhere (it takes half an hour just to reach the start of the Express way from the city). They have built a new airport in Hambantota which cannot be operated fully due to the bird problem (peacocks running wild on the air strip). And they have built a new harbor port which cannot be functioned fully (as the cranes tend to swing wildly due to cross wind).
* Most of the construction in Colombo was and is done by the army that got free from their duty as the war with Tigers ended. A lot of it is quite good to look at, similar to what one seems in parts of Singapore - ike the area developed near the earlier Dutch Hospital, the 3D murals on the tarmac, the re-developed race course and the Independence Day square memorial. It is a combination of colonial architecture with modern building techniques, and some of it is quite an eye candy.
.jpeg) |
| Independence Day Arcade with Fish Tank in the floor |
* Commute is a challenge still. There are some radio cabs like Kangaroo, but they are pricey. The tuk-tuks or auto rickshaws are cheaper, but one needs to haggle for petty distances. The train is better to getting out of the Colombo city - like an overnight journey to Trincomalee, not for within.
* The best is to walk around, especially around the Old Parliament, Galle Face and fort area. Here are some of the things that can be seen as a tourist:
- Independence Day square - for a modern building with ancient looking architecture
- ID square arcade - with stone lions and a huge fish tank right under your feet
- Galle Face - water front and new port, where you can spend hours seeing the sea waves
- 3D art on tarmac Bataramulla - complete with eateries nearby and a band playing at evenings
- Older places like Gangaramaya temple and the Museum - some are revamped now
 |
| Independence Day Arcade |
That is pretty much what it is for now, and what I recollect after a hectic and rushed visit recently. Like the city which is getting built and rebuilt piece by piece, this post will get updated as my visits continue and more and more things start opening up.
One thing is for sure, though - I am most eagerly waiting for Galle Face hotel to open their restaurant Verandah once again for breakfast. The place is next to a large lawn, overlooking the sea and you can practically drink the morning sea mist in the air while at breakfast. This is (or was) probably the only actual beach front any hotel has in Colombo (except Mount Lavania hotel, which is far) - and will remain so for quite some time, even with all the new hotels coming up! ... Usually one of my finest breakfast experiences ever!
Best
- S
19 March 2015
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