Kerala Part 5: Days 6 and 7
Day 6: 27th Jan 2012
Ashtamudi to Kochi (Ernakulam)
We start for Ernakulam at around 10am. But first the driver takes us to a local temple of goddess Bhadrakali, about 4km from the resort on the way to the highway. The deity is highly revered among the local inhabitants of the nearby villages. There is massive pillar of gold, which has (according to our driver Ramachandran) 15 kg of gold used for the plating. The temple is itself small, and men have to remove their shirts to get inside. Women need to be dressed in Indian attair, or else they are not allowed.
The idol of the deity is very pretty - soft white marble with pleasant face. Since we ask for a puja, which the priest does for us behind closed doors, we are given the blessings from the goddess in the form of prasadam - rice prepared with thick dark brown jaggary - very strong in taste and very very sweet.
We hit the highway by 11am and head towards Ernakulam. This time we have decided to stay at Ernakulam, not at Fort Kochi, just for a different experience - although they are just a ferry ride away from each other. The lunch is at a place close to Allepey, suggested by the Ramchandran the driver. I again miss the name, but I believe it starts with K - something like Katyayani.
It is a nice restaurant where a lot of locals, families are having lunch. Fish meals (90/-) are served in a box-like plate, with 2-3 accompaniments. Crab fry (120/-) is nice too. The restaurant serves a light pink warm water to drink. There is no taste to the water, but has a faint aroma. When inquired, we are told that this is normal potable water infused with some local ayurvedic herbs, which helps in digestion.
Once we reach V*** (something starting with a V) on the highway (3pm), we turn left and dive into the central Ernakulam city - feels like home - with the crowds, the honking, the traffic lights, pollution - the works. We head towards M G Road, and get dropped at hotel Grand. This is one of the oldest hotels at the heart of the city. It is refurbished recently, so it is quite clean and neat. The manager is very courteous and upgrades us to a suite - with a nice living room and a separate bedroom. The rooms have old furniture, but not creepy unlike some other places. Luck smiles on us again.
In the evening, we walk towards the marine drive - about 2km. Autorickshaws ply here. You need to haggle, but they will usually smile and take about 15-20 rupees for taking around. There is a walkway at Marine drive, with a massive Gateway hotel overlooking the sea, and some malls. On the other side of the water, we see Fort Kochi - where we were just six days ago. The circle is complete.
The dinner at Grand hotel is an affair. The options are just too many. The menu is like a book, and has separators for different sections. There is a section only for 'soups'. The seafood bisque is delicious. Karimeen in banana leaf is a speciality not to be missed. The last evening of the trip is thus well-spent.
42 Day 7: 28th Jan 2012
Ernakulam, Back to Delhi
We spend most of the last day of the trip window shopping and sometimes actually shopping at Ernakulam - sarees at Kalyani Silk (5mins from Grand), jewellery at different places (only window-shopping), and of course banana chips at Malabar chips shop.
Since the breakfast at Grand is a complete letdown, we head towards Ceylon Bake House near the Marine Drive. This place is famous for Kerala Biriyani (around 100/-). Even the fish fry (150/-) is nice, and the South Indian speciality of Ghee rice (35/-) is delectable. Very economical, and very tasty.
We start for the airport from Grand at around 5pm. The cab charges 750/- for the trip. The driver is provided by Grand and is very courteous. It takes about an hour and a half to cover the 40km, and we take the 7:30pm flight back home.
I will narrate only one small incident and end this travelog. While on the way to the airport, we stop by to have our last coconut water on one side of the road. The dweller is warm and talkative. Asks where we are from, when we came to Kerala, are we going back, which places we visited and did we like our stay. I recollect all ... Fort Kochi, Allepey, Ashtamudi, Kollam, Verkala, Ernakulam ... I tell him that I enjoyed my vacation very much, and this chap - one coconut seller at one side of the road, a total stranger to us - beames with pride. God's country or not, such pleasantries and warmth of people like William and Manual's families - leaves a mark on a traveller, of that I am certain.
Peace
- Shreekant
Ashtamudi to Kochi (Ernakulam)
We start for Ernakulam at around 10am. But first the driver takes us to a local temple of goddess Bhadrakali, about 4km from the resort on the way to the highway. The deity is highly revered among the local inhabitants of the nearby villages. There is massive pillar of gold, which has (according to our driver Ramachandran) 15 kg of gold used for the plating. The temple is itself small, and men have to remove their shirts to get inside. Women need to be dressed in Indian attair, or else they are not allowed.
The idol of the deity is very pretty - soft white marble with pleasant face. Since we ask for a puja, which the priest does for us behind closed doors, we are given the blessings from the goddess in the form of prasadam - rice prepared with thick dark brown jaggary - very strong in taste and very very sweet.
We hit the highway by 11am and head towards Ernakulam. This time we have decided to stay at Ernakulam, not at Fort Kochi, just for a different experience - although they are just a ferry ride away from each other. The lunch is at a place close to Allepey, suggested by the Ramchandran the driver. I again miss the name, but I believe it starts with K - something like Katyayani.
It is a nice restaurant where a lot of locals, families are having lunch. Fish meals (90/-) are served in a box-like plate, with 2-3 accompaniments. Crab fry (120/-) is nice too. The restaurant serves a light pink warm water to drink. There is no taste to the water, but has a faint aroma. When inquired, we are told that this is normal potable water infused with some local ayurvedic herbs, which helps in digestion.
Once we reach V*** (something starting with a V) on the highway (3pm), we turn left and dive into the central Ernakulam city - feels like home - with the crowds, the honking, the traffic lights, pollution - the works. We head towards M G Road, and get dropped at hotel Grand. This is one of the oldest hotels at the heart of the city. It is refurbished recently, so it is quite clean and neat. The manager is very courteous and upgrades us to a suite - with a nice living room and a separate bedroom. The rooms have old furniture, but not creepy unlike some other places. Luck smiles on us again.
In the evening, we walk towards the marine drive - about 2km. Autorickshaws ply here. You need to haggle, but they will usually smile and take about 15-20 rupees for taking around. There is a walkway at Marine drive, with a massive Gateway hotel overlooking the sea, and some malls. On the other side of the water, we see Fort Kochi - where we were just six days ago. The circle is complete.
The dinner at Grand hotel is an affair. The options are just too many. The menu is like a book, and has separators for different sections. There is a section only for 'soups'. The seafood bisque is delicious. Karimeen in banana leaf is a speciality not to be missed. The last evening of the trip is thus well-spent.
42 Day 7: 28th Jan 2012
Ernakulam, Back to Delhi
We spend most of the last day of the trip window shopping and sometimes actually shopping at Ernakulam - sarees at Kalyani Silk (5mins from Grand), jewellery at different places (only window-shopping), and of course banana chips at Malabar chips shop.
Since the breakfast at Grand is a complete letdown, we head towards Ceylon Bake House near the Marine Drive. This place is famous for Kerala Biriyani (around 100/-). Even the fish fry (150/-) is nice, and the South Indian speciality of Ghee rice (35/-) is delectable. Very economical, and very tasty.
We start for the airport from Grand at around 5pm. The cab charges 750/- for the trip. The driver is provided by Grand and is very courteous. It takes about an hour and a half to cover the 40km, and we take the 7:30pm flight back home.
I will narrate only one small incident and end this travelog. While on the way to the airport, we stop by to have our last coconut water on one side of the road. The dweller is warm and talkative. Asks where we are from, when we came to Kerala, are we going back, which places we visited and did we like our stay. I recollect all ... Fort Kochi, Allepey, Ashtamudi, Kollam, Verkala, Ernakulam ... I tell him that I enjoyed my vacation very much, and this chap - one coconut seller at one side of the road, a total stranger to us - beames with pride. God's country or not, such pleasantries and warmth of people like William and Manual's families - leaves a mark on a traveller, of that I am certain.
Peace
- Shreekant
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