Kerala Part 3: Day 4
Day 4: 25th Jan 2012
Allepey to Ashtamudi, Kollum
The morning comes swiftly. The sea is inviting at sunrise, so we take a stroll on the beach. Fishermen are out all night and are now seen returning to the shore in their little canoes. We have our breakfast at Casa maria, and by about 9am, begin our journey towards Kollam on NH-47 - a total of 85 km which takes about 2.5 hours.
The road is narrow and very busy. The cabbie has a special affinity towards braking at the wrong places - like right on top of the speedbreaker, not earlier - a trait we find common among the other drivers in the state too (except Rasheed, who was a wonderful driver - in hindsight). Overall a forgettable journey, apart from the times when we cross some major towns. Like Harippad - which is very busy and has a big temple where apparently people worship the gods for rain.
We leave the main highway about 30 km before Kollum and head towards the interiors. The villages are small and huddled together among the greenery engulfing the road. The road itself is long and winding, and we have no sense of direction. But it is more pleasant than being on the highway.
Suddenly the road dives down and we reach the large gates of the CM Ashtamudi property. The lake Ashtamudi becomes visible out of the blue, and this first sight is absolutely breath-taking.
We check in at around 11:30am. We have a booking - in spite of not being members and in spite of the long weekend - thanks to an old friend and a well-wisher at CM. We are also given one of the 22 'floating cottages' - a speciality of this property - these are log huts made on a floating platform that is tied to the land. So they do not move around like a houseboat, but keep bobbing up and down in the same place - which is an experience in itself. In a way, the lacuna of not staying on water in the houseboats at Allepey in our trip is partly addressed, thanks to this well-wisher at CM.
There is not much to do at the resort. It is perfect for idling by the lake. The location is superb, right on the lake. The floating log huts are impressive, complete with typical 3-star amenities, and what is more imp - a very nice deck extending on the water - where one can sit and ruminate all day long about Life, Universe and Everything. You see the deep blue waters, marked occassionally with Chinese fishing nets, some random canoes carrying supplies, a church on the opposite bank far away, and the general emptiness filling the void. It is magical.
But apart from that, everything else - the cruises, the boat rides - all have a price tag attached. A paddle boat ride for just half an hour would cost you 150/-. Also, the lunch is a lackluster affair as we find to our dismay. While we are expecting a local cuisine, we are served the typical North Indian fare like chole bhature and butter chicken. This cements our resolve to find a local mode of transportation and 'have a look' around. However, it is easier said than done. The resort is very remote and literally inaccessible. In fact about 5 years ago there was no straight road to Kollum. What is today 18km thanks to a new bridge across a canal, was earlier 40 km as you would have to go all the way around.
Everything at the resort comes for a price - a hefty one. So there is no way that we would hire a cab at the resort. There is no local transport near the resort. No autos ply nearby. And the nearest road crossing is 2km away. In any case, I have already booked myself on a 'sunset cruise' that is expected to start at 5:00pm, so we return to the log hut and rest after the lunch.
The sunset cruise turns out to be a tiny motorboat that can hardly sit about 8 people. There are already two honeymooner couples in the boat, waiting for us. So we start from the resort and go to the central portion of the lake. Manuel - the boatman - is a shy and taciturn fellow and every time I ask him something, he kills the engine and responds in monosyllables. So it gets a bit tiring, but I am persistent.
We see an old church on the banks of the lake, go towards Kollum side of the lake, stop by at a local village, have coconut water (the best one so far in the trip), then stop in the middle of the lake to see the multitude of brilliant vermillions and magentas all over the water as the sun sets on the other side of the bridge, and return by 7:00pm. The lake takes the hue of a red snapper.
The return journey is much more pleasant. The sun is no longer piercing our eyes. There is a cool breeze on the lake. The Chinese fishing nets - that we had seen standing while going into the lake on both sides - are now lowered into the lake. Each one has a tiny cluster of 4-5 electric bulbs that are now lit up. Both the banks of the lank are marked with these tiny beacons at inequal distances.
Manuel is more chatty than before as the acquintance has grown over time and he discovers that the questions he is answering are genuine and from a seasoned nomadic traveller, not a rookie. He shows us a place where they dry sea fish, and it is marked with a flock of seagulls and eagrets buzzing like bees. Once we return, while tying the boat, I ask him if I can hire a motorbike. He is surprised to hear this, but his response surprises me even more. He offers to lend me his own. I blink in happiness.
While we are speaking, I realize that another man has come to us and is listening to our chat. As it turns out, this is Willam, Manual's elder brother, who works as the swimming pool attendant.
William is more extrovert and takes charge of the conversation swiftly. He asks me what we want to do anyway. I tell him that we want to see the places around, and more than that, find some local places where we can get traditional Kerala food.Now it is Willam's turn to surprise us. He says - why not go to his own home the next day? He has a fishing net, where he catches prawns. So he will get some fish and make us a nice dinner. We cannot thank our stars enough.
So it is all arranged. We take Manuel's bike, and promise to return the next evening, when we will be going to William's house for dinner. We have an inkling, but have no idea of the extent of what a treat this is going to be.
By this time, it is quite dark. So we drop our plan to go to Kollum (20km) and instead decide to look around the resort. So we take our Delhi jackets out for it is chilly on the bike and head to the first road junction with tea shops. It is around 2km from the resort. The guys at the shops direct us towards the road that leads to the main highway. While on the way, there is a small village with a couple of small shack-like restaurants. We try our luck at a place called 'Prashanthi', but are told that they only have 'buffelo roast and porottas'. A local also tells us if we want 'tasty' food, then we need to go to the highway. So we take his advise and head to the highway (6km).
On the way, we cross a few temples. One of them has a small procession going to it. In the middle of the crowd there is pallanquin carried by a few people who are swinging to the drumbeats. The temple is lit with tiny diyas all over. The cluster of houses around the temple has come alive with activity. People are joining the procession, dancing to the tune, or walking behind the pallanquin. Housewives and children are huddled in front of every house, with a diya and some offering for the deity - patiently waiting for the pallanquin to visit their doorstep.
At the highway, we turn left and head towards Kollum. We reach the border in another 2-3 km, where there is a tiny town with a name starting with letter N. Either the names are too long or are difficult to pronounce. And most sound alike (Kottayam and Kottiyam!), so I keep mixing them.
At this town, at a junction, we ask where we can get good food, and everyone - I mean literally all 4-5 of them - in a chorus - tell us to go to this place called A. R. Restaurant - which is right next to where we are parked. There is a bakery next to it called S.R. Bakery, where we buy some fries and chips - our first sweet chips made of red banana - very tasty.
A.R. is promising. Local joint. No frills. Locals eating heartily. The men serving are friendly. We look like sore thumbs, like foreign tourists - which happens a lot in this entire trip - but they make us feel alright. The food is smelling delicious. We order a lot. And it all comes within 5 mins. Chicken roast in black pepper is quite nice. So is the fish curry and the prawn and the surmai fry. But the signature is the appam. Nowhere else do appams have this wonderful aroma. Magnificant dinner - all for just 240/-. We return to the resort, quite pleased with ourselves.
More days - 5, 6 and 7 to follow.
Best
Shreekant
Allepey to Ashtamudi, Kollum
The morning comes swiftly. The sea is inviting at sunrise, so we take a stroll on the beach. Fishermen are out all night and are now seen returning to the shore in their little canoes. We have our breakfast at Casa maria, and by about 9am, begin our journey towards Kollam on NH-47 - a total of 85 km which takes about 2.5 hours.
The road is narrow and very busy. The cabbie has a special affinity towards braking at the wrong places - like right on top of the speedbreaker, not earlier - a trait we find common among the other drivers in the state too (except Rasheed, who was a wonderful driver - in hindsight). Overall a forgettable journey, apart from the times when we cross some major towns. Like Harippad - which is very busy and has a big temple where apparently people worship the gods for rain.
We leave the main highway about 30 km before Kollum and head towards the interiors. The villages are small and huddled together among the greenery engulfing the road. The road itself is long and winding, and we have no sense of direction. But it is more pleasant than being on the highway.
Suddenly the road dives down and we reach the large gates of the CM Ashtamudi property. The lake Ashtamudi becomes visible out of the blue, and this first sight is absolutely breath-taking.
We check in at around 11:30am. We have a booking - in spite of not being members and in spite of the long weekend - thanks to an old friend and a well-wisher at CM. We are also given one of the 22 'floating cottages' - a speciality of this property - these are log huts made on a floating platform that is tied to the land. So they do not move around like a houseboat, but keep bobbing up and down in the same place - which is an experience in itself. In a way, the lacuna of not staying on water in the houseboats at Allepey in our trip is partly addressed, thanks to this well-wisher at CM.
There is not much to do at the resort. It is perfect for idling by the lake. The location is superb, right on the lake. The floating log huts are impressive, complete with typical 3-star amenities, and what is more imp - a very nice deck extending on the water - where one can sit and ruminate all day long about Life, Universe and Everything. You see the deep blue waters, marked occassionally with Chinese fishing nets, some random canoes carrying supplies, a church on the opposite bank far away, and the general emptiness filling the void. It is magical.
But apart from that, everything else - the cruises, the boat rides - all have a price tag attached. A paddle boat ride for just half an hour would cost you 150/-. Also, the lunch is a lackluster affair as we find to our dismay. While we are expecting a local cuisine, we are served the typical North Indian fare like chole bhature and butter chicken. This cements our resolve to find a local mode of transportation and 'have a look' around. However, it is easier said than done. The resort is very remote and literally inaccessible. In fact about 5 years ago there was no straight road to Kollum. What is today 18km thanks to a new bridge across a canal, was earlier 40 km as you would have to go all the way around.
Everything at the resort comes for a price - a hefty one. So there is no way that we would hire a cab at the resort. There is no local transport near the resort. No autos ply nearby. And the nearest road crossing is 2km away. In any case, I have already booked myself on a 'sunset cruise' that is expected to start at 5:00pm, so we return to the log hut and rest after the lunch.
The sunset cruise turns out to be a tiny motorboat that can hardly sit about 8 people. There are already two honeymooner couples in the boat, waiting for us. So we start from the resort and go to the central portion of the lake. Manuel - the boatman - is a shy and taciturn fellow and every time I ask him something, he kills the engine and responds in monosyllables. So it gets a bit tiring, but I am persistent.
We see an old church on the banks of the lake, go towards Kollum side of the lake, stop by at a local village, have coconut water (the best one so far in the trip), then stop in the middle of the lake to see the multitude of brilliant vermillions and magentas all over the water as the sun sets on the other side of the bridge, and return by 7:00pm. The lake takes the hue of a red snapper.
The return journey is much more pleasant. The sun is no longer piercing our eyes. There is a cool breeze on the lake. The Chinese fishing nets - that we had seen standing while going into the lake on both sides - are now lowered into the lake. Each one has a tiny cluster of 4-5 electric bulbs that are now lit up. Both the banks of the lank are marked with these tiny beacons at inequal distances.
Manuel is more chatty than before as the acquintance has grown over time and he discovers that the questions he is answering are genuine and from a seasoned nomadic traveller, not a rookie. He shows us a place where they dry sea fish, and it is marked with a flock of seagulls and eagrets buzzing like bees. Once we return, while tying the boat, I ask him if I can hire a motorbike. He is surprised to hear this, but his response surprises me even more. He offers to lend me his own. I blink in happiness.
While we are speaking, I realize that another man has come to us and is listening to our chat. As it turns out, this is Willam, Manual's elder brother, who works as the swimming pool attendant.
William is more extrovert and takes charge of the conversation swiftly. He asks me what we want to do anyway. I tell him that we want to see the places around, and more than that, find some local places where we can get traditional Kerala food.Now it is Willam's turn to surprise us. He says - why not go to his own home the next day? He has a fishing net, where he catches prawns. So he will get some fish and make us a nice dinner. We cannot thank our stars enough.
So it is all arranged. We take Manuel's bike, and promise to return the next evening, when we will be going to William's house for dinner. We have an inkling, but have no idea of the extent of what a treat this is going to be.
By this time, it is quite dark. So we drop our plan to go to Kollum (20km) and instead decide to look around the resort. So we take our Delhi jackets out for it is chilly on the bike and head to the first road junction with tea shops. It is around 2km from the resort. The guys at the shops direct us towards the road that leads to the main highway. While on the way, there is a small village with a couple of small shack-like restaurants. We try our luck at a place called 'Prashanthi', but are told that they only have 'buffelo roast and porottas'. A local also tells us if we want 'tasty' food, then we need to go to the highway. So we take his advise and head to the highway (6km).
On the way, we cross a few temples. One of them has a small procession going to it. In the middle of the crowd there is pallanquin carried by a few people who are swinging to the drumbeats. The temple is lit with tiny diyas all over. The cluster of houses around the temple has come alive with activity. People are joining the procession, dancing to the tune, or walking behind the pallanquin. Housewives and children are huddled in front of every house, with a diya and some offering for the deity - patiently waiting for the pallanquin to visit their doorstep.
At the highway, we turn left and head towards Kollum. We reach the border in another 2-3 km, where there is a tiny town with a name starting with letter N. Either the names are too long or are difficult to pronounce. And most sound alike (Kottayam and Kottiyam!), so I keep mixing them.
At this town, at a junction, we ask where we can get good food, and everyone - I mean literally all 4-5 of them - in a chorus - tell us to go to this place called A. R. Restaurant - which is right next to where we are parked. There is a bakery next to it called S.R. Bakery, where we buy some fries and chips - our first sweet chips made of red banana - very tasty.
A.R. is promising. Local joint. No frills. Locals eating heartily. The men serving are friendly. We look like sore thumbs, like foreign tourists - which happens a lot in this entire trip - but they make us feel alright. The food is smelling delicious. We order a lot. And it all comes within 5 mins. Chicken roast in black pepper is quite nice. So is the fish curry and the prawn and the surmai fry. But the signature is the appam. Nowhere else do appams have this wonderful aroma. Magnificant dinner - all for just 240/-. We return to the resort, quite pleased with ourselves.
More days - 5, 6 and 7 to follow.
Best
Shreekant
Comments